Behind the Postcard: Exploring the Real Seine River
The Seine River in Paris is a symbol of romance and elegance, graced by iconic landmarks like the Notre Dame Cathedral, Eiffel Tower, and its 37 beautiful bridges. However, beyond this picturesque facade lies a reality that remains hidden to most. The river is often referred to as 'lead-colored,' reflecting a murky blend of green and brown hues, making its contents a mystery. Furniture, algae, and even discarded bikes and fish that are
not recommended for consumption
populate its depths.
Nadia, a 45-year-old homeless woman of Algerian descent, epitomizes the less glamorous side of the Seine. Living in a Quechua tent near the Musée d'Orsay, she prefers the relative safety of the river's docks over the streets. In contrast, the river is also a stage for power and culture, bordered by the National Assembly, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and world-renowned museums like The Louvre and Musée d'Orsay. The river serves as Paris's economic lung, transporting everything from construction materials to supermarket products.
Preparing for the Olympics
As Paris readies itself for the 2024 Olympic Games, the city's administration is taking steps to ensure the river's water quality. The Surfrider Foundation has been monitoring the water, revealing it as not yet swimmable due to heavy rainfall causing a mix of rainwater and wastewater. Starting from July 1, water quality testing will expand from eight to 35 locations. Paris's deputy mayor, Pierre Rabadan, underscores that the Olympics offer a crucial lever to improve living conditions for the homeless, although not everyone agrees.
Swimming events for the Olympics are planned along stretches of the river, with vows to achieve clean and safe water quality by 2025. Rabadan shared his own experience swimming in the Seine, describing it as surprisingly pleasant amid ambitious efforts to pedestrianize docks and improve water quality.
The Historical and Cultural Significance
The Seine holds layers of historical and emotional significance. From tragic racial incidents to political events, the river mirrors Paris's multifaceted soul. It is both a geographical and mental divide—glorified in literature and art while also linked tragically to the city's darker past, such as the 1961 massacre of Algerians. François Sureau, a member of the French Academy, calls it a 'mental river,' describing it as a center of both real and imaginary territory.
The Seine is an essential yet conflicted part of Paris, marked by dreams and practical endeavors to reclaim it as a living space. As Rabadan highlights, the river's revival involves reducing pollution and noise while inviting both Parisians and tourists to reconnect with this historic waterway.
- From fictional tales of mystery to real-life accounts, the Seine has always had a dual existence. Detective Nestor Burma described its hue as 'lead-colored' in the 1950s, while modern accounts call it a 'sewer.' Yet, it's also a place where locals and tourists find solace and inspiration.
- Rabadan also brings a personal angle to the story. His family’s background and own journey from sportsperson to municipal politics resonate with the city's evolving relationship with the Seine. His portfolio weaves the tale of a river bound to the rhythms of the city, punctuated by significant events like the upcoming Olympics.
- Despite its current challenges, the ambition to make the Seine swimmable by 2025 showcases Paris's formidable spirit, mirroring the transformative effect seen in Barcelona's 1992 Olympics.
