Trattoria Meloni: A Culinary Tribute Amidst Controversy
In the coastal town of Shengjin, Albania, a unique dining experience awaits at the newly opened "Trattoria Meloni." This restaurant, adorned with 70 portraits of Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni, is the brainchild of Gjergj Luca, a 58-year-old entrepreneur and son of a famous Albanian actor. Luca, who describes Meloni as an "extraordinary" leader, aims to blend cuisine, art, and politics in a way that captivates diners as they enjoy fresh fish and shellfish under the watchful eyes of the Italian politician.
The portraits, created by renowned Albanian artist Heliton Haliti, showcase Meloni in various moods—from smiling to serious—reflecting her multifaceted persona. Haliti, despite differing political beliefs, expressed that his work was a "passion project," emphasizing the artistic freedom in postmodernism. He provocatively questions whether he needed permission to paint Meloni, likening his work to that of Andy Warhol.
The restaurant's opening coincides with a significant political development, as Meloni and Albanian Prime Minister Edi Rama signed an agreement on November 6, 2023, to establish two migrant reception centers in Albania. One is set to be located in Shengjin, while the other will be about 20 kilometers away in Gjader. However, the rollout of these centers has faced criticism from the Italian opposition and various NGOs, who argue that it may lead to inhumane treatment of migrants, especially in light of the alarming statistic that at least 384 migrants died attempting to cross the Mediterranean in the first quarter of 2024.
As the restaurant thrives, there is hope that Meloni will return to savor the culinary delights and appreciate the artistic homage in person. The intersection of politics and art in this setting raises questions about the role of public figures in the culinary world and the narratives that restaurants can convey through their themes.
