The Fierce Battle for the Origin of Germany's Beloved Kareifust
The culinary landscape of Germany is currently witnessing a heated debate over the origins of the beloved dish known as Kareifust. This traditional dish, which features a rich hot sauce made of ketchup, curry powder, and chili peppers, is a staple across the nation, consumed approximately 800 million times a year. While Berlin claims to be the birthplace of Kareifust, Hamburg is also vying for recognition, adding a layer of rivalry to this gastronomic phenomenon.
The dish is typically served over meat sausages alongside potato chips and milk bread, making it a popular choice among locals and tourists alike. In Berlin alone, around 70 million servings are enjoyed annually, highlighting the dish's significance in the capital's food culture. The origins of Kareifust, however, are steeped in mystery and folklore, with various stories attributing its creation to different locations and individuals.
One of the most famous legends points to Herta Heuer, a Berlin restaurateur, who is said to have concocted the first version of Kareifust on September 4, 1949. According to this tale, Heuer's innovative sauce was born from a shortage of mustard, leading her to mix tomato paste, Reese's Basket sauce, and curry powder, ultimately pouring it over grilled sausages. In contrast, Uwe Timm's 1993 novel,
claims that the dish originated in Hamburg, where a serendipitous mixing of curry and ketchup led to its creation.
Adding to the complexity of Kareifust's history, Prince Alexander zu Schaumburg-Lippe asserts that the dish was invented in his family's castle kitchen in 1946, served to British officers after World War II. Despite these competing narratives, Berlin has gained recognition for its role in popularizing the dish, with Herta Heuer being honored with a plaque in 2003 for her culinary contribution.
Kareifust has transcended its humble street food roots, making its way into upscale dining as well. The prestigious Hotel Adlon in Berlin has included this dish on its menu since 2018, selling it for 26 euros. The hotel reports serving about 800 dishes each month, particularly favored by international guests. While the exact recipe for the sauce remains a closely guarded secret, it is known to include exotic ingredients like mango, lemongrass, and star anise, often garnished with tiny golden leaves. As the debate over Kareifust's origins continues, one thing remains clear: this dish is a cherished part of Germany's culinary heritage.